Monday, August 30, 2010

Lemon Mousse Cake with Fresh Raspberries

Mise en place.  Everything in its place.  A completely brilliant cooking concept.  You set out all your ingredients (pre-measured is even better), so when you start to cook (or bake), you have everything at the ready and suddenly you're the Julia Child of the kitchen - whisking, pouring, mixing, blending - all effortless, efficient and ebullient.
Yeah. Right.
Don't get me wrong.  The obsessive organizer in me thinks that this is the cat's meow of kitchen practice.  It's logical.  It's rational.  It's neat and clean and meticulous.  And on occasion, it works.  But those occasions are few and far between.  Those occasions are when you have time to methodically put out all your ingredients, pull out all your bowls and measuring cups and spoons, your mixers and blenders and scales.  Your pans, skillets and potato mashers.  The times when you can painstakingly measure, sift, level, and zest.  And then, and only then, can you begin your culinary alchemy.  Such zen.  Such harmony.  Birds are tweeting.  Flowers are blooming.  The sun is, of course, shining.  And pigs are flying.  That's right.  Pigs.  In the sky.  Overhead.  Because unless you have minions in residence in your kitchen, no home cook has the luxury of a restaurant or tv show-inspired mise en place.  It's a beautiful dream.  But most of the time it's just not happening.  Most of the time there is no method to the madness.  Most of the time, the mixer is on while you're simulaneously dribbling in one ingredient, guesstimating a half cup's worth of the next, keeping an eye out on the cake already in the oven (because the timer went off like five minutes ago but it doesn't look quite ready yet), convincing a cat to back away from the cream you just poured and hoping like all get out that the recipe you just read on the fly did not say that there was chilling time of six hours.  Most of the time.... well, you get where I'm going with this.
 
But this was not one of those times.  Neither was this a bonafide flower-blooming, sun-shining, om-inducing time.  It was a Sunday afternoon, a little chilly, a little dark and a little dank.  Ingredients were haphazardly arranged on the counter, and the recipe was read over once.  The cat was sleeping under a bed and the cream was safe.  So maybe it was not as efficient, effortless and ebullient as a Julia Child tv appearance (actually, now that I think about it, things went sloshing and spilling and spattering on her show), but neither did chaos rein that afternoon.  Good thing.  Here's what I have to show for it.
 
Lemon Mousse Cake with Fresh Raspberries

make the cake....

preheat the oven to 325F

Grease the bottom of a 9x3 inch springform pan.  Dust the bottom of the pan with flour
Sift together the flour, 1/2 cup of the sugar, the baking powder and salt into a medium bowl.  Whisk to combine.

In the bowl of an electric mixer beat the egg yolks, vegetable oil, lemon zest, lemon juice, milk and vanilla extract at medium speed until blended.  Add the flour mixture one-quarter at a time, mixing until just blended.

Beat the egg whites and cream of tartar at medium speed until soft peaks form.

Using a rubber spatula, briskly fold about one-quarter of the whites into the cake batter.  Gently fold in the remaining whites.
Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top.

Cool the cake in the pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes.  Invert the cake onto the rack and let cool completely upside down.

 make the ginger syrup.....


In a small saucepan, combine the water and sugar and bring to a boil over medium-high heat.  Remove the pan from the heat and add the ginger slices.  .

make the mousse.....

Sprinkle the gelatin over the water and let soften for 5 minutes.

Whisk together the egg yolks and sugar until blended.  Stir in the lemon juice, salt, and butter and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture thicken.

Immediately strain the mixture through the sieve, pressing it through with a rubber spatula.

Beat the heavy cream at high speed until medium peaks form.

Set the bowl containing the lemon mixture in a large bowl filled about one-third of the way with ice water.
Fold a large spoonful of the whipped cream into the lemon mixture to lighten it.  Gently fold in the remaining cream.

assemble the cake.....

Cut the cake horizontally into 2 layers.
 
Sprinkle the syrup-coated raspberries over the mousse.  Top with the other cake layer, cut side up.  Sprinkle the remaining lemon mousse on top and spread it into an even layer.
 
Refrigerate the cake until the mousse is set, at least 3 hours.
(Good time to have a coffee.....)

And here it is.....

Lemon Mousse Cake with Fresh Raspberries
(adapted from The Cake Book)

Lemon Chiffon Cake
1 cup cake flour
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
4 large eggs
1/3 cup safflower or other neutral vegetable oil
1 teasapoon finely grated lemon zest
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tablespoons whole milk
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

Ginger Syrup
2/3 cup water
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1/2 inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced

Lemon Mousse
2 tablespoons water
1 teaspoon powdered gelatin
8 large egg yolks
1 1/4 cup granulated sugar
2/3 c freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/8 teaspoon salt
10 tablespoons (1 1/4sticks) butter
1 cup heavy cream

one 6-ounce container fresh raspberries

Make the Cake:
1. Position a rack in the centre of the oven and preheat the oven to 325F. Grease the bottom of a 9x3 inch springform pan.  Dust the bottom of the pan with flour.
2. Sift together the flour, 1/2 cup of the sugar, the baking powder and salt into a medium bowl.  Whisk to combine.
3. In the bowl of an electric mixer, using the paddle attachment, beat the egg yolks, vegetable oil, lemon zest, lemon juice, milk and vanilla extract at medium speed until blended.  Reduce the speed to low and add the flour mixture one-quarter at a time, mixing until just blended.
4. In a clean mixer bowl, using the whisk attachment, beat the egg whites and cream of tartar at medium speed until soft peaks form.  Gradually beat in the remaining 1/4 cup sugar, then increase the speed to high and beat until the whites are stiff but not dry.  Using a rubber spatula, briskly fold about one-quarter of the whites into the cake batter.  Gently fold in the remaining whites.  Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and smooth the top.
5. Bake the cake for 22 to 28 minutes until it is golden brown on top and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean.  Cool the cake in the pan on a wire rack for 10 minutes.
6. Invert the cake onto the rack and let cool completely upside down.
Make the Syrup
7. In a small saucepan, combine the water and sugar and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally to dissolve the sugar.  Remove the pan from the heat and add the ginger slices.  Set aside at room temperature.
Make the Mousse
8. Place the water in a small heatproof cup.  Sprinkle the gelatin over the water and let soften for 5 minutes.
9. Set the cup of gelatin in a pan of simmering water for a few minutes, stirring occasionally until the gelatin is dissolved and the mixture is clear.  Remove from the heat but leave the cup of gelatin in the hot water.
10. Set a fine-mesh sieve over a medium bowl; set aside.  In a medium heavy nonreactive saucepan, whisk together the egg yolks and sugar until blended.  Stir in the lemon juice, salt, and butter and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens, 7 to 10 minutes (do not let the mixture boil otherwise it will curdle).  The mixture should leave a path on the back of a wooden spoon when you draw a finger across it.  Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the warm gelatin mixture.  Immediately strain the mixture through the sieve, pressing it through with a rubber spatula.  Set aside while you whip the cream.
11. In the bowl of an electric mixer, with the whisk attachment, beat the heavy cream at high speed until medium peaks form.  Place the whipped cream in the refrigerator.
12. Set the bowl containing the lemon mixture in a large bowl filled about one-third of the way with ice water (be careful that the water doesnèt splash into the lemon mixture).  Stir the lemon mixture frequently until it is slightly cooler than room temperature, about 10 minutes.
13. Fold a large spoonful of the whipped cream into the lemon mixture to lighten it.  Gently fold in the remaining cream.
Assemble the Cake
14. Release the cake from the cake pan.  Invert the cake, then turn it right side up.  Using a long serrated knife, cut the cake horizontally into 2 layers.  Place the top layer cut side up in the bottom of a 9x3-inch springform pan.  Set aside.
15. Remove the ginger slices from the syrup and discard.  In a small bowl combine 2/3 cup of the raspberries with 1 tablespoon of the syrup; set aside.  Using a pastry brush, saturate the top of the cake layer in the pan with about half of the remaining syrup.  Scrape about 2 1/4 cup of the lemon mousse onto the cake.  Using a small offset metal spatula, spread it into an even layer.  Sprinkle the syrup-coated raspberries (without excess syrup) over the mousse, distributing them evenly.  Top with the other cake layer, cut side up.  Brush the cake with the remaining ginger syrup.  Sprinkle the remaining lemon mousse on top and spread it into an even layer, filling in the gap between the cake and the side of the pan.
16. Refrigerate the cake until the mousse is set, at least 3 hours.
17. Run a thin-bladed knife between the cake and the side of the pan, remove the side of the pan.  

Thursday, August 26, 2010

Dry Rub Ribs

Everyone who has NOT seen Fight Club, raise your hands.  Guess what?  Me neither!
But, I hear that it's the epitome of male bonding movies (I also hear that Brad Pitt just mumbles alot and goes shirtless, but really when you're looking at Brad Pitt do you really care what he has to say?!?)  Apparently, nothing says male bonding like bare knuckles brawling.  Who knew?!?
I also hear that they have a bunch of rules.  So, of course I had to check them out.  They are (and I quote):
1) First rule of fight club - you don't talk about fight club. 
2) Second rule of fight club - you DON'T talk about fight club.
3) When someone says stop or goes limp, even if he's just faking it, the fight is over.
4) Only two guys to a fight.
5) One fight at a time.
6) They fight without shirts or shoes.
7) The fights go on as long as they have to.
8) If this is your first night at fight club, you have to fight.
Wait.  Is this fight club or is this marriage?  I've seen the Monarch go limp when we have a disagreement - did that mean that the fight was over?!? 
Anyway, this got me to thinking about rules for Kalyna's Kitchen.  I think the first two are obvious. 
First rule of Kalyna's Kitchen - you don't question Kalyna in her kitchen. 
Second rule of Kalyna's Kitchen - you DON'T question Kalyna in her kitchen (duh!). 
Rule #3 - If Kalyna faints from exhaustion (even if she's faking it), the cooking stops and call for take-out. 
Rule #4 -Only two desserts allowed per meal (the Monarch will like this rule!). 
Rule #5 -Only one person in the space-challenged kichen at a time.  Otherwise, a fight really may break out. 
Rule #6 -ALWAYS wear a shirt when in Kalyna's Kitchen.  ALWAYS!
Rule #7 - The dish cooks/bakes for as long as it has to.  !$(!$*% the recipe!
Rule #8 - If this is your first night at Kalyna's Kitchen, you have to do the dishes.
Sounds fair, no?
How about one more rule?  Rule #9- If you're going to watch Fight Club, you should be eating ribs.  Seems like a fight club kind of food.  Good.  We're agreed.  Scroll below for the ribs then.
PS - The Monarch says I really, really have to watch this movie.  (OK.  He only said one really.)  Guess what I'll be doing this weekend.....
Dry-Rubbed Ribs
Ribs (adapted from Mad Hungry: Feeding Men and Boys)

2 racks baby back or pork spareribs (about 4 lbs)
coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 teaspoons sweet paprika
1/2 teaspoon smoked Spanish paprika
1 teaspoon dried sage
1/2 teaspoon ground cinammon
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 tablespoons granulated brown sugar

1) In a small bowl, combine the coarse salt, pepper, sweet and smoked paprikas, dried sage, cinnamon, cumin, cayenne pepper and brown sugar.
2) Rub the mixture into the ribs and refrigerate for at least 2 hours.  Bring to room temperature before cooking.
3) Preheat oven to 325F.  Cover pan with aluminum foil.  Cook the ribs for 2 to 3 hours. Check every 30 minutes and turn ribs over.  Spoon any juices over them.  If not too dry, uncover for last 10-15 minutes to brown and crisp a little.
*I made more rub than what is indicated and saved the rest in a covered jar in time for another boys' movie.

Monday, August 23, 2010

Lemon Squares

 
 
Pucker up! 
 
I've been waiting a while to say that.  And no, I don't mean this in a Lothario kind of way.  I just want you to be prepared.  You know, scout-like.  Neither rain, nor sleet, nor gloom of night and all that kind of stuff.  Wait.  That's not right.  That's the US postal services creed.  Hmmm.  Wonder what the scout one is?!?  Doesn't matter.  Just pucker up.  Bet you're wondering why.  OK, OK.  I'll give.  Scroll down below.  I've got some lemons for you.  Well, lemon squares to be exact.  Which, believe you me, is even better.  I'm fast becoming a fan of anything lemon (except lemon yellow paint - I still can't figure out where that works in a room).  Lemon meringue pie.  Lemon iced tea.  Those delectable Italian lemon cookies.  You know the ones - made of some yeast-y mix, they're usually displayed as a mountain range of little balls covered over with a lemon sugar icing.  Yum! (And since I searched high and low for a recipe for them, I plan on doing some reverse engineering recipe work in the near future).  And my absolute positively favorite of all favorite lemons - Lululemon! 
 
Drat!  I'm now distracted with Lulu and all the nice shiny new yoga gear.  And I don't think it's good for you to stay all puckered up that long.  So, you get to the lemon squares...while I just....hmmm.....what did you say.....
 
crusted....
 
 
  
baked.....
 
and dusted.....
here's how...
 
Lemon Squares (adapted from The SoNo Baking Company Cookbook)
Crust
2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/3 cup toasted wheat germ
1/3 cup confectioner's sugar
3/4 teaspoon coarse salt
1 1/4 cups (2 1/2 sticks) cold, unsalted butter, cubed

Filling
1 3/4 cups plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup lemon juice (about 5 lemons), plus 1 tablespoon grated lemon zest
1/2 teaspoon almond extract
3 large eggs, room temperature
1 egg yolk, room temperature

3 to 4 tablespoons confectioners' sugar, for dusting

Directions
1. Grease a 9 by 13-inch glass baking dish with butter.
2. To make the crust: In a large bowl, whisk together the flour, wheat germ, confectioners' sugar and salt.  With a pastry cutter, cut in the cubed butter into the dry ingredients, until the mixture resembles course crumbs.
3. Press the dough into the bottom and about one-third of the way up the sides of the greased baking dish.  Refrigerate for 30 minutes.
4. Set the oven rack to the middle position.  Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
5. Bake until the crust turns an even blond color and is cooked through, about 15-17 minutes.  Remove the pan from the oven.  Keep the oven on 350.
6. To make the filling: In a large bowl, whisk the sugar with the flour and the salt.  Add the lemon juice and zest, and the almond extract.  Whisk in the eggs and the egg yolk.  Pour over the warm crust.
7. Bake the squares until the filling sets and the centre still jiggles slightly, 18-20 minutes.
8. Cool completely in the pan on a wire rack.  Dust with confectioners' sugar.  Cut into squares.

Notes:
- I didn't like the taste of the almond extract in the filling and would omit this the next time.
- The wheat germ is the secret ingredient here.  The crust is delectable with it.
- A good way to get the most juice out of your lemons is to microwave them for a few seconds (30-40) each and then roll them on the counter, pressing.
 

Thursday, August 19, 2010

Perogies


I like to bake.  But I don't have a sweet tooth.  I like to on-line shop.  But I'm too impatient for the order to arrive.  I like mysteries.  But I (sometimes) flip to the end, you know, just to have an inkling of what to expect.  And I like Ukrainian food.  Um.  That's it.  I just like it.  I like everything about it.  The no-frills, no pretense about it.  The memories it brings up of my grandmothers.  The copious amounts of sour cream used.
But I'm not going to blue sky you here.  Ukrainian food is about alot of work.  It's a great way to spend a rainy day with, let's say, Sex and the City on.  You can probably get through an entire season of Carrie/Big/Aidan angst while making one dish.  (Honestly.  Was there ever any doubt that it was going to be Big?!?)  Don't get me wrong.  The work takes time but the amounts you make are staggering.  If you don't want to go it alone, you can always choose to enlist help.  Team up.  Gossip.  Then divvy up the goods.  Either way, it's all good.
Best rainy-day Ukrainian food?  Peirogies, of course!  Potato ones to be exact.  If you're being good, then stick with the low-fat sour cream.  If you're having one of those days, then load them up with the real stuff, and spoon on some carmelized onions and crispy bits of bacon.  You can always get on that Bosu ball and work out tomorrow...

Potato Pierogi 

Making the dough


 Rolling it out...

Cutting out the dough...

 Little balls of potato

 Forming the perogies...

 Assembly...

All buttered up...

Dough (adapted from Martha Stewart)



  • 1 large egg







  • 2 tablespoons sour cream







  • 1 cup milk







  • 1 cup water







  • 4 1/2 to 5 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting





  • Usually I made my dough the way my mother taught me (in large bowl dump in flour, add warm water and melted butter, stir until all the flour is incorporated, then begin to knead dough; add more flour if necessary.)  But this time I thought I'd try something different.  So I found this recipe, and it worked out just fine.  The dough, once boiled, was a little tougher than what I'm used to, but there's less chance of it sticking and tearing.

    1 large egg
    2 tbsp sour cream
    1 cup milk
    1 cup water
    4 1/2 - 5 cups all-purpose flour

    1. In a medium bowl, whisk egg.  Add sour cream and whisk until smooth.  Add milk and 1 cup water, whisk until combined.  Slowly add about 3 cups flour and stir with a wooden spoon to combine.
    2. Turn dough onto a well-floured surface and work in about 1 cup flour as you knead. Use a plastic scraper to lift dough as it will stick to the counter before flour is worked in. Continue kneading for 8 to 10 minutes, working in another 1/2 cup flour. The dough should be elastic in texture and no longer sticky. Be careful not to add too much flour, as this will toughen dough. Place dough in a lightly floured bowl and cover with plastic wrap and let rest while you prepare filling.

    Filling
    This is a guesstimate.  I apologize for this in advance.  But it's sort of the way that recipes get passed down. 
    5 lbs Idaho potatoes (use russet potatoes that retain little water)
    1 container pressed cottage cheese (not the regular lumpy kind)
    1 large onion
    salt and pepper, to taste

    1. Make the filling: Place potatoes in a large pot, and cover with cold water. Add salt. Place over high heat, and bring to a boil. Cook until fork-tender. Drain and mash with a potato masher.
    2. Cut onion into small dice.  Swirl oil in pan, add onion once hot and let it brown to a golden color.  (I would lower the heat, stir them around often, and let them caramelize.).  
    3. Add the onion and the cheese to the potato mixture, and continue to mash until well incorporated. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

    Make the perogies




  • On a floured surface, roll out dough to about 1/8 inch thick. Using a glass or cookie cutter measuring 2 1/2 inches in diameter, cut out as many circles as possible. Gather dough scraps together, rolling them out again, and continue cutting.







  • Form filling into 1 1/2-inch balls, and place a ball in the center of each dough circle. Holding a circle in your hand, fold dough over filling, and pinch the edges, forming a well-sealed crescent. Transfer to linen towel. Continue this process until all dough circles are filled.







  • Place pierogi in boiling water in batches. They will sink to the bottom of the pot and then rise to the top. Once they rise, let them cook for about a minute more. Meanwhile, drizzle platter with remaining 8 tablespoons melted butter. Remove pierogi from pot, and transfer to platter to prevent sticking. Serve immediately.








  • 1 large egg







  • 2 tablespoons sour cream







  • 1 cup milk







  • 1 cup water







  • 4 1/2 to 5 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting





  • 1. On a floured surface, roll out dough to about 1/8 inch thick. Using a glass or cookie cutter measuring 2 1/2 inches in diameter, cut out as many circles as possible. Gather dough scraps together, rolling them out again, and continue cutting. 
    2. Form filling into 1 1/2-inch balls, and place a ball in the center of each dough circle. Holding a circle in your hand, fold dough over filling, and pinch the edges, forming a well-sealed crescent. Transfer to linen towel. Continue this process until all dough circles are filled.
    3. Place a large pot of salted water over high heat, and bring to a boil. Lay a clean linen towel on your counter, and evenly distribute flour on it to prevent sticking.
    4. Place pierogi in boiling water in batches (about 12 at a time, depending on the size of your pot)  I always keep count because sometimes you can miss one in there. They will sink to the bottom of the pot and then rise to the top. Once they rise, let them cook for about a minute more. 
    5. Meanwhile, drizzle platter with remaining melted butter. Remove pierogi from pot, let drain in colander and then transfer to platter to prevent sticking. Serve immediately.

    Smachnoho!!! (Bon Appetit!)



    Monday, August 16, 2010

    Chocolate Cream Pie



    Zombified.
    That's how I felt today.  I had the stares.  And the shuffling gait.  Muffled sounds were made.  Not a pretty picture.  And then I had a cup of coffee.  And everything was good again.  Well, sort of.  While the Nespresso was making its way through my system (eyes re-focussing - check, brain de-fuzzing - check), I was trying to navigate my way through the kitchen without bumping into too much stuff.  My objective?  A piece of chocolate cream pie.  With a single-minded focus on the dark chocolate wafer crust and creamy pudding-like filling (personally, the whipped cream doesn't do it for me), I edged closer to the fridge with arms shooting straight ahead, reaching for the handle (geez, I guess the Nepresso didn't hit all spots yet since the zombie-posing was back).  Door flung open, eyes now (kinda) wide with anticipation, and..... no pie.  Just a tell-telling trail of cocoa powder dust where the pie previously lay in wait.
    Me thinks that a certain Monarch has been here.  You'll have to excuse me while I go check if said tell-telling cocoa powder has darkened his pristine goatee...
    For the record, this is what the pie looked like, from start to finish...

     chocolate crust....


    becoming a custard...


    thickened and strained custard...


    now a chocolate kinda pudding...


    bowl licked clean...oops, how did that get in here?!?


    getting ready to hit the fridge for a few hours...


    a bottle of porto peeking from behind the whipped cream...


    APB out for this pie....
    Chocolate Cream Pie (adapted from Gourmet)

    For crust

    • 1 1/3 cups chocolate wafer crumbs (from about 26 cookies such as Nabisco Famous Chocolate Wafers)
    • 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
    • 1/4 cup sugar

    For filling

    • 2/3 cup sugar
    • 1/4 cup cornstarch
    • 1/2 teaspoon salt
    • 4 large egg yolks
    • 3 cups whole milk
    • 5 oz fine-quality bittersweet chocolate (not unsweetened), melted
    • 2 oz unsweetened chocolate, melted
    • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
    • 1 teaspoon vanilla

    For topping

    • 3/4 cup chilled heavy cream
    • 1 tablespoon sugar

    Make crust:  

    • Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 350°F. Stir together crumbs, butter, and sugar and press on bottom and up side of a 9-inch pie plate (1-quart capacity). Bake until crisp, about 15 minutes, and cool on a rack.

    Make filling:  

    • Whisk together sugar, cornstarch, salt, and yolks in a 3-quart heavy saucepan until combined well, then add milk in a stream, whisking. Bring to a boil over moderate heat, whisking, then reduce heat and simmer, whisking, 1 minute (filling will be thick).  

    • Force filling through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl, then whisk in chocolates, butter, and vanilla. Cover surface of filling with a buttered round of wax paper and cool completely, about 2 hours.  

    • Spoon filling into crust and chill pie, loosely covered, at least 6 hours.

    Make topping:  

    • Just before serving, beat cream with sugar in a bowl using an electric mixer until it just holds stiff peaks, then spoon on top of pie.

    Cooks’ note: Pie (without topping) can be chilled up to 1 day.